Leather & Faux Leather Sewing Hacks: Needles, Thread, Machine Settings & More

Sewing with leather and faux leather can be intimidating—these materials don’t behave like regular fabric. They’re thick, slippery, and unforgiving of mistakes (hello, permanent needle holes!). But with the right tools and techniques, you can create stunning bags, jackets, and accessories.

In this guide, we’ll cover:
✔ The best needles (machine & hand) & thread for leather sewing
✔ Machine settings & adjustments to prevent skipped stitches
✔ Essential tools & presser feet for smooth sewing
✔ Pro tips for hand-sewing & finishing edges

Let’s dive in!

1. Needles: The Key to Success

Sewing Machine Needles

• Leather Needles – Have a chisel point (not sharp) to pierce without tearing.

  • Recommended: Schmetz Leather Needles (90/14) – Perfect for medium-weight leather.

  • For thick leather: Schmetz Heavy Duty Leather Needles (110/18).

• Denim/Heavy-Duty Needles – A good alternative for faux leather if leather needles aren’t available.

  • Try Organ HLx5 Denim Needles (100/16).

• Microtex Needles – Best for thin faux leather to prevent lifting the coating.

  • Recommended: Schmetz Microtex Sharp Needles (80/12).

🚫 Avoid universal needles—they can leave jagged holes or break.

Hand-Sewing Needles

• Glover’s Needles – Sharp, triangular points designed for leather.

  • Recommended: John James Glover’s Needles (assorted sizes).

• Harness Needles – Strong, thick needles for heavy leather.

  • Try CS Osborne Harness Needles.

• Saddler’s Needles – Extra-long for thick projects like belts.

  • Check out Tandy Leather Saddler’s Needles.

Pro Tip: Pre-punch holes with an awl if leather is too thick for hand-sewing.

2. Thread: Strong & Durable

• Polyester or Bonded Nylon Thread – Strong, flexible, and resists abrasion.

  • Recommended: Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Heavy Thread.

• Heavy-Duty Upholstery Thread – Great for thick leather projects.

  • Try TEX 70 Bonded Nylon Thread.

• Avoid Cotton Thread – It weakens over time and can snap under stress.

Pro Tip: Match thread weight to needle size—thicker thread needs a larger needle eye.

3. Machine Settings & Adjustments

Tension & Stitch Length

• Stitch Length: 3.0–4.0 mm (longer stitches prevent perforation tears).

• Tension: Slightly looser than normal (test on scraps first).

• Foot Pressure: Reduce if possible (prevents sticking).

Speed & Technique

• Go slow! Leather doesn’t like fast stitching—it can stretch or pucker.

• Use a walking foot (even feed foot) to prevent slipping.

  • Recommended: Singer Even Feed/Walking Foot.

• Avoid backstitching (it weakens leather)—instead, knot threads manually.

4. Essential Tools for Leather Sewing

✔ Non-stick (Teflon) presser foot – Prevents sticking on faux leather.

• Try Schmetz Non-Stick Foot.
  ✔ Roller foot – Helps glide over thick leather smoothly.

• Check out Janome Roller Foot.
  ✔ Leather awl or punch – For hand-sewing or pre-punching holes.

• Recommended: C.S. Osborne Awl.
  ✔ Rubber mallet or hammer – Flattens seams for easier sewing.

• Try Tandy Leather Mallet.
  ✔ Clips (not pins!) – Pins leave holes—use wonder clips or binder clips instead.

• Recommended: Clover Wonder Clips.

5. Hand-Sewing Leather: Pro Tips

• Use a glover’s needle (sharp, triangular point).

• Pre-punch holes with an awl if leather is too thick.

• Beeswax your thread to reduce friction and tangling.

  • Try Beeswax for Leather Sewing.

• Saddle stitch (double-threaded hand stitch) for extra durability.

6. Pressing & Finishing Edges

🔥 Never iron leather directly! Use:

• A cool iron with a pressing cloth (for faux leather).

• A wooden seam roller to flatten seams without heat.

  • Recommended: Seam Roller for Leather.

Edge Finishing Options:

• Sand & edge paint (for real leather).

  • Try Fiebing’s Leather Edge Paint.

• Fold & glue (for faux leather—use contact cement).

  • Recommended: Barge All-Purpose Cement.

7. Troubleshooting Common Issues

Problem Solution

Skipped stitches Use a fresh leather needle, slow down

Sticky faux leather Use a Teflon foot or tissue paper

Thread breaking Check tension, use stronger thread

Uneven feeding Try a walking foot

Final Tips for Success

✅ Test first! Always practice on scraps before sewing your project.
✅ Use a leather punch for thick layers (like belts or bags).
✅ Avoid unpicking stitches—holes are permanent in leather!

Shop Fabric!

🛒 TORRAMI Soft Synthetic PU Fabric

🛒 8 Pcs Colored Faux Suede PU Leather Fabric

🛒 New Weave Embossed Textured Faux Leather Sheets

🛒 Holographic Iridescence Crocodile Faux Leather Sheets

Want more advanced sewing guides? Check out:

• How to Sew a Zipper on Thick Fabrics

• The Best Heavy-Duty Sewing Machines

Happy crafting! 👜✨

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